Wednesday, October 5, 2011

Hermes S/S 2012

I could imagine that Hermès, being pissed off with LVMH for the story about the shares, might try and sneakily do something to piss them off. And if that thing is to do a Céline-like collection better than Céline, well then, they have succeeded. The minimal silhouettes, genius leather pieces, and beautiful simplicity are to be expected on a Céline catwalk, but come as a slight surprise at Hermès. But who cares. For the most part it looks great, and to be honest, we are much more concerned with their bags and scarves anyway.

CHLOE S/S 2012

Even though this collection by Clare Waight Keller is much better than Hannah MacGibbon’s last collection for Chloe, if you hadn’t told me it was a new creative director, I probably wouldn’t have noticed. Both seemed to understand that Chloe was about feminine, effortless, pretty clothing for relaxed women. Or perhaps girls. I love this collection, and I’d wear it all. It’s not about over the top designer garb, it’s about clothes that real women will want to be wearing next summer.


Full of Shells and Pearls... under the sea concept for this season

As you can see, the color palette was very light and delicate for this season.  There is a light and luminosity throughout, punctuated by very discreet uses of black in pinstripe square shapes or silver metallics on shoes and accessories.

The makeup was light, delicate and pearly, with very light shimmery lips and cheeks.  The eyes had a ethereal glow but were grounded in a deliberate black liner. Hair and skin were accessorized with single pearls.

Valentino S/S 2012

Valentino woman is a stranger, more complex cipher than Garavani's stunningly uncomplicated vision of beauty. Today they made the requisite nods to his great motifs - the ruffles and that always-scene-stealing red - but these were not the main event. There was youthful prettiness in floral lace dresses in baby blue, black, blush and pink (this strapless, with a ruffle hem), and elfin kookiness in the glitter heeled flat sandals with straps of entwined leather, and a little sheer pink capelet with pink lace shorts.

Their longest riff, however, was played through the mediums of chiffon and lace and majored on an ankle-skimming hemline much longer than most collections next spring. By layering these ultra-light materials they create an ultra-feminine and very watchable interplay of movement, sometimes emphasised by placing the lightest possible polka dots on an nude chiffon underskirt, or a rose appliqué on a black sheer gown.

Alexander McQueen S/S 2012

I could see Gaga-ish gowns and dresses but a lot more classy and very stunning!

Is it possible to get through a review of a Sarah Burton for Alexander McQueen show without mentioning that Royal Wedding? Perhaps not, but rest assured this collection was not designed solely with the Duchess of Cambridge in mind. Sure, she'll probably pop on one of the beautifully tailored suits that opened the show, but the more extravagant evening gowns are designed with a more experimental, longstanding McQueen fan in mind. Like Chanel, the McQueen show looked to the sea for inspiration, with these models seeming to rise from the deep with barnacle-like embellishment, mullet hems with trailing seaweed detail, encased headdresses and fluffy coral trims. It was stunning from start to finish.